Ride at Alki

Heading to Seattle's Alki Beach today for a ride with my wife and youngest son. An "All Twenty" ride.  We started right where the West Seattle Bridge ends on Admiral Way... near Bike University.  Parked the van and started out.

I sprung for some tension bars that create a false top tube.  This makes getting the R-20 MUCH easier to mount on a traditional tail hitch rack.

My wife rode the pristine orange Twenty we have.  If you look hard in the distance, it matches the color of the top of the 50th Anniversary Space Needle!  My 11 year old loves this view of Seattle.

There are a ton of waterfront parks along the basically flat 5 mile or so route.  Fun to stop and smell the salt water!  Also, much of the route has dedicated "wheels" path, meaning bikes only have to content with skateboarders and roller skaters.

No ride to Alki would be complete without a stop at Pegasus Pizza, my vote for best pizza in Seattle!!

My Current Ride

This is a modified Raleigh Twenty I picked up in Vancouver BC recently. Very sweet bike and an excellent price. Considering making this my main ride now.

There is a story to this bike (of course)...  The girl who listed it on craigslist for a C$75 price mentioned when I picked it up... "my ex-boyfriend wasn't too happy I sold it for that."  No doubt!  I think the wheels/tires alone would've cost me a couple hundred!

This bike rides real quick and agile.  The headset has been modified in some way too (although it looks original).  It is much more responsive than any other Twenty I have.  I haven't taken it apart to see what was done.

I took it out the other day on a 6 mile ride and it felt identical to the road bikes I have been riding recently.  The only difference is the handlebar.  I'm not into putting ram-horns on a bike like this (i've seen others do it) but there just are not the number of available hand positions in this configuration.

There is a slight rattle in the SA hub too I need to look into.  I thought it was the dust cover behind the sprocket at first, so I took it off and slathered grease in there... nope.  Still rattles.  It is a funny rattle - only occurs when I don't have active pedal pressure on the chain i.e. coasting along.  Not sure what is going on but it is definitely in the hub.

Anybody?  Thoughts?

More to come. I'm resurrecting this blog again using Blogger on my iPhone. This is just a test for now...

Modified Raleigh Twenty: Alloy wheels (new Schwalbe tires),
Seat Post, Pedals and Handlebar.  Fully updated brake system

I added lights (2 front and two rear), odometer,
bell and Carradice with home-made support and
Brooks B-17 Saddle

Looking for a nice set of narrow chime fenders....

Raleigh International DL-170

For a very long time, I've wanted to get a higher end touring bike to make my main ride. My biggest problem... I'm kinda cheap and don't want to spend the kind of money it takes to get a Rivendell or other custom frame. I love lugged frames made of steel. Good steel. I have a Surly Crosscheck that is a great bike, but it's a TIG welded frame and, well, I'm kind of a snob about it I guess. Once I started getting into old Raleigh's, it was only a matter of time before my eye would be caught by the International.

1974 Catalog Image

The DL-170 International was the top of the line touring frame made by Raleigh Carlton in the 1970s. Yes, the Raleigh bike most people would call the true "top of the line" from that time was the  Professional. But the fact is the Professional was the same as the International except for a few facets: the Professional had Campy brakes, it's frame was a tighter racing geometry and it had slope shoulder  fork crown. The International had Weinmann 999 center-pull brakes, flat chromed fork crown, and a more relaxed geometry designed for more comfortable touring. Both frames were made of double butted Reynolds 531 steel, arguably the best in the world at the time. Both were outfitted with a full set of Campy Nuovo Record (with the exception of the brakes, mentioned above).

My searches on eBay and Craigslist were not very fruitful... for years... Too much money (a top condition International can go for north of a grand) or too many dents and scratches. That changed a couple months ago. An add popped up on the local Craigslist for a green 1973 International with a few replaced parts (Shimano changers, brakes and such).  The ad was posted by a gent just down the street from me, so I went to see it.

It was nice, but too small. 21.5 inch frame and I need a 23.5. I'd waited this long, I wasn't going to compromise now....

"Sorry," I said.  "it's just too small."

He got a funny look on his face.

"You know what... I have another one of these I just got from a guy down the hill. Champagne and 23.5 inch. It's a bit large for me... Hang on, I'll go get it..."

Um... OK.... So here he comes with a gorgeous specimen, original Brooks saddle was pretty worn, but the rest of the bike was in great shape except it was missing the rear changer and chain. Unridable, so no one had rode it in ages. Everything else was original condition...

"How much?" I asked.

"$1000"

Now I'd come with $400 for the green one without all the parts. $600 more for a bike I'd always wanted, but couldn't cough up the money for.... Still $1000 is a LOT of money for a bike.

"Can't do it... Sorry. That's just too rich for me..."

"How about I knock off $200 and you leave me the saddle..."

I have tons of Brooks saddles.

"Deal!"

 I ran to the cash machine and drove away with this beauty in my trunk...

The bike is completely stock and in great condition.  As I mentioned above, it was missing the rear derailleur and chain, so I began the eBay hunt for a Campy Nuovo Record changer.  As luck would have it, while I was waiting to see if I would be outbid on yet another one (they go fast), I stopped by Recycled Cycles in Seattle and they had one in the "special" case!  Same year and everything!  So it was meant to be.  Literally a few minutes later, I was riding her.  I've since added a pair of hammered Velo Orange fenders to the package.  The special thing about the International is the chrome.  Chromed forks, stays and headtube lugs... Very nice indeed...

The serial number on this bike is A4545.  There is a TON of information about these bikes at a great site called The Headbadge .  It seems that this serial number is NOT a lot of help in determining the age of this bike.  It is probably a 1973 given the lugs that are being used, the wrap-over seat stays on the seat cluster lug and the decal set.

Yesterday was it's maiden voyage of any significance.  The weather was nice.  Still a bit cold, but not soaking wet.  I took her on a 17 mile ride around Mercer Island.  The International handled like a dream.  Very responsive and, like other higher end steel frames I've had the pleasure of riding, powerful.  Every ounce of energy put into the pedals seems to translate to forward movement.  There is no sluggishness to the ride.

Overall, I'm very pleased.  I plan on making this bike my "main ride" for some time to come!

charles

PS:  Know anyone who wants a nice Crosscheck?

NO to SOPA and PIPA

This blog, like many, many other sites today will respect the voluntary blackout to protest PIPA and SOPA, now being considered in Congress.  These bills would be very harmful to sites like this one.

Please contact your senators and congress people and let them know you disagree with these bills...

Revival Cycle LLC

Well, it's official.

I've been toying with the idea of starting up a bicycle-related business of some sort and I've finally done it.  I have incorporated under the name Revival Cycle LLC in Washington State. 

veloscene will still continue, as the official blog of revival cycle.  In fact, I hope to up the frequency of posts to support the site.

What will revival cycle do?

Starting out, it will be the place where I will sell vintage bikes that I have "revived."  There have been a LOT of bikes I have revived over the last 10 years and they just get sold via craigslist.  In this way, I can actually gain some tax advantages from this activity.

I have also created a custom saddlebag support that I'm selling.

I've always harbored a dream of opening a bicycle-themed cafe... these are the first tentative steps toward that goal.

I have also been inspired by the mission of World Bike Relief.  My plan is to donate the proceeds from the business to them to support the mission of giving bikes to people in developing countries.  My first bike inspired me to independence, and I think its great to see the independence that comes to others.

Lot's of work to do!!

Announcing... the Electric Twenty!

OK, so I lied a bit... I WAS working on some bike related stuff during the last couple of months of silence.

Here is my first prototype of an electrified Raleigh Twenty!

As any reader of this blog knows, back in July 2010, I picked up a blue R-20 with a single speed coaster-braked rear hub from a young lady in Redmond.  The bike had some serious condition problems, so I stripped it down and made it a single speed street machine.  I painted it out in black metallic Rustoleum, installed a paired wheel-set from a Specialized kids dirt-cross bike (also single speed and coaster-braked - needed to file out the front drops to get the wheel in, but the rear fit perfect) and cut the frame according to Sixty Fiver's instructions on the Raleigh Twenties web forum to install a threadless headset.  New Brooks B-66, Challenge bag and leather disc grips make up the bling!

So this bike was fun to put around on, but I had visions of it being an electric scooter someday.

My oldest son needed to do a culminating project for senior year of high school so he and I researched available electric hub motors.  There are quite a few out there.  Here were my criteria:

-I didn't care about speed.  I wanted a bike that could go on its own at a respectable speed, but would basically be a rider, a bike that I could pedal for real and "boost" from time to time.
-I wanted an electric bike that didn't LOOK/SMELL/TASTE or FEEL like an electric bike.  My dad had an electric conversion of a mountain bike back in the 80's and frankly, it was a clunker.  It was under powered and the battery weighed a ton.  It looked goofy and you'd never pedal the thing...

After a bit of research, we came across the Clean Republic systems.  These are 250 watt brushless front hub motors with your choice of sealed lead acid (SLA) or LithIon battery systems.  We purchased it at EBikes NW in Seattle.  We opted for the LithIon system which was more expensive, but claimed a 20 mile range (versus 10 for the SLA system) and a longer overall battery life of 4 years (versus a 1 year life for the SLA).

We had to have EBike NW staff (Thanks DJ!) help us with a couple items that were beyond our technical expertise:
- We needed to have the hub laced into the 20" rim that already existed on the bike.  I really want to learn how to lace wheels, but I wasn't up for the challenge yet.
- We needed to have the fork cold-spread to accommodate the wider hub.  This was a bit of a trick.  The fork couldn't just be spread because the fork drops would be too angled to thread the wheel onto.  It had to be spread then bent back perpendicular to the ground.  Basically this was done by spreading the forks first, putting in a block just above the point where the top of the hub would sit and compressing the fork ends back to vertical.  I didn't see this happen, but would have liked to witness the process so I could attempt it myself.

Here is my son at EBikes NW inspecting the newly bent fork...

Once we took possession of the bike and the battery/cables/hub-wheel, we did the final install and cable tying.  It was pretty easy.  Below are close up photos of the front wheel, now with an electric motor hub.  It looks like a slightly larger version of the Sturmey Archer Dynohub!!

The cable system is a Y-configuration setup.  There is a larger metal connector that fastens to the battery/controller unit.  It then splits into one line that has the throttle switch and the other connects to the hub.  Super simple to install with zip ties.  I only had three black zip ties in my shop, so I used them on the frame and, seriously, black wires against black frame with black zip ties... the cabeling is basically invisible!!  I still have a few more white zip ties to replace (you can see one on the fork).  Once I've replaced them all, you'd hardly know there is cable running on the bike.  You need to leave some slack around the area where the head tube attached to the down tube so the handlebars can swivel.  I also opted to make the cable tight at the folding joint (which essentially makes the bike into a non-folder now).

The actuation switch is mounted to the left handle bar.  It's just a red button.  Push it and go.  It comes with a velcro attachment that, frankly, was a fail from the start.  It kept slipping.  Eventually, I wrapped the bar in a bit of old inner tube and zip tied the switch over it.  Perfect.  It doesn't move at all.

So, how does it run, you ask? Amazing!  Here are my initial impressions:

- Press the button and go.  It's that simple.  There is a switch on the battery/controller unit that must be in the "on" position before the thumb switch will work.  This is a nice safety feature.  The thumb switch is pretty sensitive and you wouldn't want the wheel to go accidentally.  I'm getting in the habit of turning the battery off after using it.
-There is a bit of hesitancy from when you push the button and the wheel goes.  Not bad, but it isn't an instantaneous power add. You need to think ahead just a fraction of time before when you need the juice.
- The wheel motor is 250 watts.  DJ at EBike NW put it this way: "A person on flat ground riding generates about 100 watts.  This motor adds 2.5 additional people to your riding."  And it feels about right. Two and a half additional people that only weigh about 12 extra pounds (motor is 6 lbs and battery is 6 lbs).
- When laced to a 26" wheel, the Clean Republic site claims a 15 mile per hour top speed.  Some people using the kit on 26" say they get 17mph. The smaller wheel means not as much distance traveled per revolution, thus a slower top speed.  I do not have a speedometer on this bike, but I'm estimating it tops out around 11-12mph.  Based on this chart (its in green about halfway down the page), you multiply the 26" wheel speed by 0.769 to get the max 20" wheel speed.  15 x 0.769 = 11.5mph.  17 x 0.769 = 13mph.  These seem about right.
- My only complaint is that there is something rattling around in the battery storage case, which is made of ballistic nylon.  The straps are tight, so I'm not sure what is making the noise.  I'd like to remove the battery/controller from the case, but the switch is integral to it (see below) and I'd need to break it.  I'm going to someday, but I'm not ready to yet.

FUTURE PLANS
My son and I plan to create a custom battery/controller case (probably in a steampunk style!) to hide the battery.  The case will be firmly mounted to the Pletscher rack on the bike and weatherized.  The case is going to be made out of 1/4" marine grade plywood and varnished.  I'm planning on attaching some pannier mounts so I can add grocery-getter baskets of some kind.

I already have an extra set of fenders from another brown Twenty.  I just finished painting them out in metallic black.  They will mount onto the bike as the rain (inevitably) starts...

This has been a really fun project and the bike is a hoot to ride.  Let me know if you have any thoughts or questions!

~charles

Getting back in the swing of things...

It's been a long fun summer of family doings.  I've spent a lot of my free time working on home projects that have been put off for far too long.  Now that fall is in the air here in the great Pacific Northwest, I'm ready to get back into my bike mode.


Stay Tuned!

~charles